The Levant in the Latin World


Arab-inspired Mexican food (image from Arab America) 

Mexican cuisine is celebrated worldwide for its vibrant flavors and rich culinary traditions. In restaurants and on busy streets across much of the Americas, Mexican cuisine can be found alongside long lines and tables of toppings and salsas, and visual cues teasing at something less known, Arab influences in plain sight. 

While many recognize the influence of Indigenous, Spanish, and African cultures in Mexican gastronomy, fewer are aware of the significant impact of Arab culture on the nation’s food. The story of Arab influences in Mexican cuisine is one of migration, adaptation, and a harmonious blending of flavors that has left a lasting mark on the country’s culinary identity.

From Tacos al Pastor to Quibis, the history of Levantine peoples in migration is on the menu. 

From Morocco, Medina and Mosul to Mexico City

The Arab influence in Mexican cuisine arguably began with the Spanish Conquest in the early 16th century. The Kingdom of Spain, under the influence of both the Crown and the Catholic Church, was waging two wars, one of conquest and another, against the remaining traces of unwanted cultures and peoples within their borders at the tail end of the Reconquista, a series of campaigns and efforts to displace and remove Moorish influences and peoples from the Iberian peninsula. 

The Moors, who had ruled parts of Spain for nearly 800 years, brought with them a wealth of culinary traditions that the Spanish eventually introduced to the New World. Ingredients such as cumin, coriander, and rice, as well as cooking techniques like spit-roasting, were gradually adopted and adapted by indigenous Mexican communities.

Such examples and documentation of early crossovers in cuisine between Levantine cuisine and the cuisines of the New World are sorely lacking, due in part to the immense scrutiny and zealotry of the Spanish government on any potential non-Christians attempting to resettle in these newly conquered lands. There is some evidence, however, that the conquistadors were accompanied by slaves of Jewish and Muslim descent ranging from across North Africa to the Levantine. Their stories are largely unknown. 

However, it was not until the late 19th and early 20th centuries that a significant wave of Arab migration to Mexico occurred. Thousands of immigrants from Lebanon, Syria, and other parts of the Ottoman Empire arrived in Mexico, bringing with them their culinary heritage. These migrants, primarily Christian Arabs fleeing political and economic turmoil, settled in cities like Puebla, Mexico City, and Mérida, where they quickly became an integral part of Mexican society.

Crypto-Jews, Jews forced to practice in secret to avoid persecution or death (image from Jerusalem Post)

These communities were derived principally from:

  1. Lebanese and Syrian immigrants: The wave of Lebanese and Syrian immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries played a crucial role in introducing Arab flavors to Mexican cuisine. These immigrants, many of whom were involved in small businesses, established restaurants and food stalls where they served dishes like kibbeh, shawarma, and tabbouleh. Their cooking methods and flavors gradually blended with local Mexican ingredients, creating unique fusion dishes.

  2. Mizrahi Jewish immigrants: Another group that contributed to the spread of Arab-influenced cuisine in Mexico was the Mizrahi Jewish community, many of whom came from Arab countries. They introduced dishes like baba ganoush, hummus, and muhammara to the Mexican palate. These foods were often served at community gatherings and eventually made their way into the broader Mexican culinary scene. Yiddish-speaking Ashkenazi Jews largely arrived later and with different cultural and culinary traditions. 

Culinary Innovation Amid Cultural Assimilation 

As these peoples of different religions, languages, and regions across the Levant settled, they were united in part by shared experience and gastronomy. As people began to assimilate to varying degrees, it was through food that new innovations in cultural crossover became notable. 

Man cutting al pastor (image from J. Philleo)

One of the most iconic examples of Arab influence in Mexican cuisine is the taco árabe. Originating in Puebla, this dish features marinated pork cooked on a vertical spit (similar to shawarma) and served in a pita-like bread called pan árabe or in a tortilla. The taco árabe is a delicious fusion of Middle Eastern and Mexican culinary traditions, embodying the way Arab flavors have been seamlessly integrated into Mexican cuisine.

Another dish that exemplifies this cultural fusion is kibbeh, known locally as quibis. Originally a Levantine dish made from bulgur, minced onions, and finely ground meat, kibbeh was adapted in Mexico to include local ingredients and spices, creating a unique variation that has become a staple in the cuisine of Lebanese-Mexican communities.

In recent years, Mexican chefs and food enthusiasts have continued to explore and innovate with Middle Eastern flavors, leading to exciting new developments in Mexican cuisine. Restaurants across the country are now experimenting with dishes that combine traditional Mexican ingredients with Middle Eastern spices and cooking techniques. For example, contemporary Mexican cuisine has seen the rise of dishes like tacos de falafel, where the classic Middle Eastern falafel is served in a tortilla with salsa and avocado, blending the best of both worlds.

Moreover, there is a growing trend of Mexican-Lebanese fusion restaurants, particularly in Mexico City, where chefs are pushing the boundaries of traditional cuisine by creating menus that celebrate the rich culinary heritage of both cultures. These developments reflect a broader trend of globalization and cultural exchange in the culinary world, where chefs draw inspiration from diverse traditions to create new, exciting flavors.

The Arab influence on Mexican cuisine is a testament to the country’s rich history of cultural exchange and adaptation. From the arrival of Arab migrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries to the modern fusion dishes found in today’s restaurants, the impact of Middle Eastern flavors on Mexican gastronomy is profound and enduring. As Mexican cuisine continues to evolve, the fusion of Arab and Mexican culinary traditions promises to delight palates and tell a story of cultural connection for generations to come.

Yucatan Kibis (image from Yucatan Times)

Some of the dishes one is most likely to encounter in Mexico include:

  1. Kibbeh (Quibis): Kibbeh, a traditional Levantine dish made of bulgur wheat, minced onions, and finely ground meat, is known in Mexico as quibis. The Mexican version often includes local spices and ingredients, giving it a unique twist including variously or, depending on the locale: spearmint, habanero, mango, jalapeño, and more.

  2. Tabbouleh: A fresh salad made of parsley, bulgur, tomatoes, mint, and lemon juice, tabbouleh has become popular in Mexico, particularly within Lebanese-Mexican communities. It's often served as a side dish or appetizer.

  3. Jocoque: Similar to Labneh, this creamy, tangy yogurt cheese, commonly found in Middle Eastern cuisine, has found its way into Mexican kitchens. It's used as a spread or dip, often paired with tortillas or pan árabe.

  4. Falafel: Traditionally a Middle Eastern dish of deep-fried chickpea balls, falafel has been embraced in Mexican cuisine, sometimes served in tortillas as tacos de falafel with salsas, avocado, and other Mexican toppings.

  5. Shawarma (Tacos Árabes): The adaptation of shawarma into tacos árabes is perhaps the most famous example of Arab influence. Originally made with lamb or chicken, in Mexico, the dish is often prepared with marinated pork, reflecting local tastes and available ingredients. (In America, one will most likely see this influence in Al Pastor spits, especially at Mexican street food stands in cities like Los Angeles).

  6. Dolma (Niños Envuelto): Dolma, or stuffed grape leaves, have inspired a Mexican variation known as niños envueltos, where cabbage leaves are stuffed with meat and rice. This dish showcases the blending of Middle Eastern and Mexican culinary practices.

The Arab and Levantine influence on Mexican cuisine is evident in both the specific dishes that have been adopted and the cooking techniques that have been integrated into the broader culinary tradition. Early cooks, particularly within the Lebanese, Syrian, and Mizrahi Jewish communities, played a pivotal role in introducing these new and complimentary flavors to Mexico. Today, dishes like al pastor, quibis, and tabbouleh are celebrated as part of Mexico's diverse gastronomic heritage, demonstrating the enduring legacy of Arab culinary traditions in the country.

Further Reading 

Books

  • The Mexican Mahjar: Transnational Maronites, Jews, and Arabs under the French Mandate (University of Texas Press, 2017)  by Camila Pastor 

  • Genealogical Fictions: Limpieza de Sangre, Religion, and Gender in Colonial Mexico (Stanford University Press, 2008) by María Elena Martínez

  • The Black Middle: Africans, Mayas, and Spaniards in Colonial Yucatan (Stanford University Press, 2010) by Matthew Restall 

  • Cuisine and Empire: Cooking in World History (University of California Press, 2015) by Rachel Laudan

Cookbooks

  • Sabor Judío: The Jewish Mexican Cookbook (Ferris and Ferris, 2024) by Ilan Stavans and Margaret E. Boyle [Forthcoming]

  • Mexican Cookbook And Lebanese Food: 2 Books In 1: Over 150 Recipes For Traditional Recipes From Lebanon And Nordic Countries (Self-published, 2021) by Adele Taylor

Articles

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